Car Body Fitment
A body clip is attached to the top of a chassis to allow it to fit under older AFX bodies. Only the short Mega G+ (and Mega G) chassis (1.5″ wheelbase) have body clips. Like the Super G+, their body clips allow them to fit under AFX bodies dating back to the early 1970s.
The Long Mega G+ chassis’ (1.7″ wheelbase) was created for use on modern race car bodies like the Formulas, Audis and Peugeot 908 bodies. None of the Formula bodies made for older chassis’ will fit on the Mega G+ chassis. Our Long Mega G+ chassis allows us to make the bodies more accurate to their real-life counterparts and only AFX has it!
Differences in Car Speed
Slot cars are just like real cars in that no two are alike. Cars that are identical in every respect can still have up to a 10% speed differential. There are a few reasons for this: one motor can be a little more powerful than another; traction magnets might be a little weaker on one car; the gears might mesh better on one compared to the other.
When two cars are not identical, it gets even more interesting. Formula bodies are lighter than full-bodied stockers and will, therefore, be faster. Some bodies are aerodynamically better than others (LeMans racers vs. street cars) so just like in racing, the more aerodynamic body will have a faster top end.
Cars won’t reach peak performance level until they’ve been broken in and warmed up. In fact, after the break-in, new cars that ran slower than others may end up matching speed or beating your top cars.
Here’s how to Break-In your new AFX car: After taking the car out of the package, run it on the “Beginner” setting of the tri-power pack for 30 consecutive minutes, pushing it along when it stalls or stutters. This break-in time will help to seat the motor brushes and only needs to be done once when the car is brand new.
After the initial break-in, you’ll only need to warm up the car. Here’s: Adjust to the highest power level you’re able to for your layout and run the car for 30 consecutive minutes OR until it’s zipping around the track without stuttering or stopping. Again, make sure to push it along whenever it stalls. If it’s still getting lapped after this, the chassis is probably defective.
Proper care and maintenance of your AFX car will also help minimize speed and performance differences. You would be amazed just how much slower a dirty car will be.
Springs & Pick Ups Shoes Falling Out
After a crash, it’s common for your car to lose a spring or shoe or both because both of those parts are not permanently attached to the chassis. For freedom of movement they are leveraged into their position on the chassis which means a bad crash could certainly knock them loose.
The best way to put a spring back in and replace a shoe for a Mega G PLUS chassis is to lay the chassis flat, upside down. Place the spring in the embedded hole then lower the shoe down on top of the spring until its completely depressed. Then gently slide the shoe so it hooks under the small bar on the chassis and is pinned in place at the front of the chassis as well, and that should do it!
We sell these and other spare parts together in our Tune Up Kits in the Accessories section.
Tune Up Kits
For those new or returning to the hobby – part of the fun is maintaining and repairing your cars after normal wear and tear over time. To help you do that, we make Tune Up Kits that correspond exactly with the type of chassis you’re looking to fix up. Overtime shoes will need to be cleaned and eventually replaced, springs may fall out, tires may dry and crack, etc. For an in-depth walk-thru of a typical tune up, check out our video: How to Clean Pickup Shoes
The Mega G PLUS tune up kits are Part Number 22036 and include white lettered front AND rear tires.
Fast Cars Slowing Down
If your cars were running well and have started to slow down, the pick-up shoes and/or track rails are probably dirty. When racing at Beginner on your Tri Power Pack, the voltage is only 8volts. The traction and motor magnets are very strong so if the electricity getting to the motor is reduced by dirty parts it won’t take a lot for the magnetic force to overpower the motor. That is why at Intermediate (12 volts) or Expert (22 volts) the cars don’t have much difficulty moving.
Two things to check: First, are the pickup shoes. If there is a blackish stripe down the middle, use a pencil eraser or very light sandpaper to gently rub it clean. Be sure not to bend the shoes. If the shoes have grooves in them, you can try sanding them down. But if the grooves have worn all the way through, they’ll definitely need to be replaced. Some spares come with each AFX set. You can also get spares with our Tune Up Kits or Pit Kits. Check out the video on “How to Clean Your Pickup Shoes” at this link: http://afxracing.com/php/technical/?1
Second thing to check: track rails. Use a tissue to wipe the track rails in the direction of travel. If you see dark lines on the tissue it means the track has collected dirt and should be cleaned as well. The Technical section on our website has some great info on track maintenance, check out our video on “How to Clean Your Track” at this link: http://afxracing.com/php/technical/?1
Generally, you will have to do this kind of cleaning every 8 hours of running, depending on a number of other conditions.
Comparing AFX Chassis' Old to New
All are close in performance. The main differences are:
- Mega G+: Most drivable slot car around
- Mega G: Lowest, lightest, most powerful, and 7% faster than Super G+.
- Super G+: The reference standard until the Mega G. Handles great, good top speed and adjustable motor. 2% faster than SRT.
- SRT: Super strong Neodymium traction magnets make up for its less sophisticated design.
- Racing Turbo: Not as fast as others but bulletproof and fun to drive.
The SRT and Super G+ chassis’ are all significantly faster than the original G-Plus chassis created in the mid-70s. But some folks still prefer the slower G-Plus and Racing Turbo chassis’ with their lower magnetic downforce.
The Short Mega G & Mega G+ chassis fits all full-bodied cars made for SRT, Racing Turbo, and the Super G+. However, Formula (open wheel) bodies, LMP cars (Audis and Peugeot 908s) and GEN 6 NASCAR and some longer streetcars (like Mustangs and Chevelles) will only fit on the Long Mega G+ chassis. Also, none of the Formula bodies made for the other chassis’, including the Mega G will fit on either of the Mega G+ chassis.
AFX Chassis' Chronology
Though we don’t have the exact dates, here is a quick and dirty chronology:
- Mega G+ (2015 – Present) *Mega Gs discontinued*
- Mega G (2007-2015) *all other chassis discontinued*
- SRT (1990s) SRT stands for Super Racing Turbo
- Racing Turbo (late 1980s)
- Super G+ (1980)
- G+ (1974-77)
- Magna Traction (1974)
- T Jet (1970s)
In addition to the above, there were at least two other chassis made between the late 50’s and early 70s though they were made under the “Model Motoring” trade name which was changed to AFX in 1971. If you want more info checkout the History section!
AFX Chassis Dimensions
WHEEL & TIRE DIMENSIONS
All AFX Front TIRES: 0.375″
All AFX Rear TIRES: 0.460″
All AFX Front WHEELS: 0.275″
All AFX Rear WHEELS: 0.275″
Please note: These are also the ODs for the Racing Turbo, SRT and Super G+ fronts only. The Super G+ rear wheel is a special drop center design that can only be used with matching Super G+ tires.
Chassis dimensions are measured by the wheelbase, or the dead center of the wheels. That measurement is what defines our “long” and “short” chassis. The long chassis wheelbase is 1.7”, the short chassis wheelbase is 1.5”.
End to End Dimensions are as follows:
Long Chassis full length is 2.2”, full rear width is 1.4”, full front width is 1.26”, center height is 0.43”
Short Chassis full length is 1.98”, full rear width is 1.4”, full front width is 1.26”, center height is 0.43”
Please note: These measurements are for the MEGA G PLUS chassis only and certain “specialty” cars out now or produced in the future may have slightly different chassis measurements depending on its body style.
AFX Slot Cars Size & Scale
AFX cars are referred to as “HO” which is 1/87th scale. However, they have really been 1/64th scale since the early 70s and are still that scale today. It is likely that the reason they didn’t stop referring to them as HO was for marketing purposes and now it is just accepted.
Every AFX car is the same HO scale.
Paintable AFX Cars
All paintable AFX cars come with a chassis since we do not sell car bodies individually.
Paint techniques can be as simple or as complex as you’d like. Turns out you can do some pretty amazing things with car paint. Generally speaking you can brush paint on, spray it on with “rattle cans (off the shelf spray paint)” or air brush or a combination of spray paint and a brush for details. Type of paint? Typically either lacquer or enamel. Both can be purchased at stores like Michael’s art supply shops. You can also use plain old Krylon from WalMart. Future floor wax is often used as a final coat over decals and paint. Then there are decals, there’s numerous sources for them and they can be peel-and-stick or water-slide. Indycals, Pattos, Innovative Hobby are just a few sources.
Using Old AFX Products with New AFX Products
Any AFX car from any era will work on any AFX track from any era. However, you will notice performance and behavioral differences between the old and new cars particularly in how they respond to your controllers. Therefore, we recommend racing old versus old and new versus new – just to keep it fair! For the most reliable, high-performance races, use the most current track type with the current power supply, the Tri-Power Pack.
Mounting Track Layout to Plywood
Before attaching a track to any surface in a permanent or semi-permanent fashion, physically layout the track you want ahead of time. Though we include measurements on the track layouts included in our sets, they can be slightly off. So, when doing this type of precision work, you’ll want exact measurements. Test the track layout first. Buy supplies second.
There’s two main ways to attach track to wood. The first is with screws, the #4 X 5/8″ flathead wood screws to be exact. Drill the track holes out with a #33 drill (.103″diameter) and countersink the top of the track with a 45-degree CS so the screwheads are flush or under the track surface. Using this method will give .350″ of screw thread to engage the wood you are installing the track to. This arrangement creates a good bond in plywood. If you can’t use those types of screws, just drill the right size hole into the track for the appropriate screw size you’ve got at home. (Technically you can use nails instead, but we don’t recommend it. Several track pieces will be damaged in the attaching and removal processes.)
The second way to attach track to wood is with a hot glue gun. When applied at key points instead of securing the track all the way around, hot glue allows for a nicer removal process since it can be cut through with an Exacto knife. And, not for nothing, when you put enough glue down, it will hold the track pretty well. The downside here is obvious; it’s messy and the track isn’t as evenly secured.
AFX track clips (https://afxracing.com/product/track-clips/ will pull together and securely hold track connections, making it nearly impossible for your track layout to come apart while you’re mounting it. When used with screws or hot glue in a few key areas to anchor the track, you’ll have a smoother, quieter layout. Plus, if you decide to change the layout you can do so with minimal damage to track pieces.
4 Lane Tracks
We don’t actually have 4 lane track pieces. We only have 2 lane track pieces that can be setup next to each other to create a 4 lane layout. This allows as many variations of track layouts as possible, so you can create pretty much any kind of track.
There’s been 3 generations of AFX Track…
- Push/Pull: Current Track, has been around since about 1979
- Side Lock: produced from about 1976 to 1979.
- Lock and Joiner: ran from the 1960s through about 1976. Adapters were made back in the 70s.
No AFX track tooling has changed since 2008 when we copied the existing tooling exactly for about 70% of the tools. The only change before that was when the track tools were made in 1979. So, whatever “thickness” the tracks were in 1979, they were not changed in 2008.
We used to make adapter tracks to connect our current track type to its predecessor the Side Lock, and the Side Lock to the original Lock & Joiner. Though we no longer make or sell any track adapters, you may still be able to find them through other retailers however they can be hard to find.
Crisscross Track Section Problems
Since the design of the Crisscross track literally crosses power from one lane to the other, that section of track will always be a little more challenging than the rest. If you’re going too fast, you may derail, if you’re going too slow, you may stall. Like a complicated section in a real racetrack, the crisscross provides an added challenge to the race requiring the racer to regulate their car’s speed over that section of track. (It can also level the playing field if one lane has a time advantage over the other.)
If you are continuing to derail, check your chassis for warped shoes or uneven springs. Try switching out the shoes and springs of one of your cars with the spares included in your race set. Lastly, check that the metal rails of the crisscross track aren’t sticking up too high above the rest of the metal rails in your track. If you find that to be the case, lower the rail by tapping it down into its slot very, very gently with a hammer.
If fishtailing is a problem when going through your crisscross tracks, put guardrails or race barriers on the crisscross tracks and problem solved!
If none of those options seem to work for you then your track may be defective and should be replaced. Just let us know and we’ll send you a replacement free of charge, but remember, it will still be a challenging section of track.
Banked Curve Supports
Bank supports are designed to be used with a 4 lane setup only (stacking 9″ and 12″ radius bank track sections side by side). They are not needed for the 2 lane setup. Banked curve track sections are shaped in a curve and designed to be strong enough to support themselves.
New Track Clips on Older AFX Track
Unfortunately, no. The underside of our older tracks is shaped differently from the current track. Therefore, any pre-1982 AFX or Aurora tracks need different track clips than the one we sell.
One Controller Powering 2 Lanes
If ONE of your controllers is controlling BOTH of your track lanes, there’s a simple solution!
Turns out when you’re using the crisscross tracks you must have an even number of them in one layout. In other words, for every layout you assemble, you must have two, or four of these crisscross track pieces, NOT one or three. Having an odd number of them in your layout turns the two individual lanes into one continuous lane, therefore causing one controller to power both lanes. To fix it, just add another crisscross track piece to divide them back up and all will be right in the world.
If your controllers are controlling multiple lanes on your track and your layout DOES NOT INCLUDE any crisscross track pieces, there’s two culprits: either you are using a spare terminal track as a regular 15” straight track in your layout and not plugging it into controllers or power source OR your terminal track is defective and needs to be replaced.
Controller Cord Lengths
We have three different cord lengths for our controllers:
6 feet long: controllers sold individually
3 feet long: controllers in Super International Sets
2 feet long: controllers in all sets besides Super International sets
Can AFX sets be used outside the U.S.?
Yes, however, the power pack that comes in all AFX sets is for use with an input power of 120v and will not work with 220v or 230v without a transformer. Though we do not have transformers available in any other voltage, an electronics store in your country should carry them. Failure to use the correct transformer will damage or destroy the AFX power pack and may cause serious damage to your electrical system.
We accept returns of unused, unopened products that were purchased directly from our website www.afxracing.com only.
To receive a refund for your purchase, please send back the products you do not want, unopened in their original packaging.
Once we’ve received and approved your return, we will refund the credit card you used for that order. Shipping charges and any subsequent returns are non-refundable. We are not able to exchange returned products for other products or credit customer accounts for future purchases.
Request returns by replying to your order confirmation email or by emailing email@example.com
How to Place an Order
Ordering on www.afxracing.com is as easy as 1-2-3:
- Open the Products tab and select from the categories: Cars, Sets, Track, or Accessories.
- Add the item you want to purchase into your shopping cart by clicking Add to Cart below its picture.
- Once done, open your shopping cart, select Checkout, and follow the prompts to input personal/shipping/credit card information.
Orders may take up to three days to process before they are shipped. Once they ship you will receive an email with tracking information from Stamps.com. Thanks for shopping AFX!
What is the blue Track Pad for?
The Owner’s Manual refers to this 1″ by 1″ square of fine (200-400 grit) sandpaper which comes in every set in a small plastic bag with a spare pair of pick up shoes (depending on the set). Use it primarily to clean dirty pickup shoes or to clean track rails but only as a last resort. If the track isn’t cleaned after using the pad the metal filings left over will get picked up by the motor magnets and scratch up the plastic. Check out our maintenance videos on the best ways to clean your track and cars.
Though we do not sell the Track Pad individually, you can find a large sheet of it at your local hardware store for a very reasonable price.
What's the difference between the Power Packs?
The Standard Power Pack has come with AFX sets since the 1970s. It has one setting, 22 volts, which is great for our more experienced racers. However, for our younger racers, the Tri-Power Pack is extra fun. Introduced in 2007, our Tri-Power Pack allows racers to easily switch between three power settings: Beginner, Intermediate, and Expert.
On Beginner (using only 8 volts) racers can drive on most layouts at full throttle without the car coming off the track. On Intermediate (using 12 volts) racers can come off at full throttle in at least a few of the corners. On Expert (22 volts, the same voltage as our Standard Power Pack), the cars can come off pretty much everywhere.
Our Tri-Power Pack comes in all current AFX sets and plugs right into any AFX set sold after about 1980. This is the first time such a product has been made for HO cars and only AFX has it!
Why are the controllers smoking?
During production, our controllers receive a light coat of preservative before they’re packaged to prevent corrosion. Most of it evaporates completely but with about 5% of controllers, there is some residual. This residual can cause a small amount of smoke, and sometimes a subtle “electrical” smell as the preservative evaporates. Neither is at all harmful to humans and will disappear as soon as it evaporates completely, usually no more than 30 minutes of racing.
Smoking occurs most often on the Tri-Power Pack’s Expert level (the only level that generates the heat required for evaporation). If you are at all uncomfortable with your controller smoking, let us know and we will send you a replacement.
In 1971 Aurora released a 45ohm Yellow controller. The 45ohm controllers worked best with the likes of Racing Turbos and Magna Tractions. Our previous controllers, from as far back as the 1980s, had 60-65 ohms which worked best with Super G+ and Mega G cars. And then of course our current controllers have 120 ohms designed specifically for the Mega G+ chassis – that massive increase in ohmage translates to more wire for the resistor which means more resistance which means – more control.
Why do High Bridge Supports knock cars off the track?
Even after following the directions to a ‘t’ stuff might not always work out exactly as planned. If your cars are getting knocked off the track when going under overpasses try re-installing them the opposite way you had them before. Turns out the high bridge supports still look correct even when they’re upside down.