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Once we create a shipping a label for your order, you will receive an automated email from Stamps.com with tracking information. If you do not see the email, check your spam folder as they are known to end up there. If you are still unable to locate it, feel free to Contact Us.
How To Order
Ordering on www.afxracing.com is as easy as 1-2-3:
- Open the Products tab and select from the categories: Cars, Sets, Track, or Accessories.
- Add the item you want to purchase into your shopping cart by clicking Add to Cart below its picture.
- Once done, open your shopping cart, select Checkout, and follow the prompts to input personal/shipping/credit card information.
Orders may take up to three days to process before they are shipped. Once they ship you will receive an email with tracking information from Stamps.com. Thanks for shopping AFX!
Once you place an order on our website, you will receive a confirmation email confirming that we received your order. Once your order has been processed and a shipping label has been created you will receive an automated email with the tracking information for your order. You can use this number to track your order’s progress through USPS. If you don’t see the email, check your spam folder. If you still can’t locate it, please contact us.
AFX Customer Service Representatives can be reached by phone, mail, email or through website submissions. You will find all forms of contact listed on our Contact Us page.
We accept all major credit and debit cards as form of payment through our website.
We may be able to help you if you wish to modify an existing order that has not yet been shipped. We are only able to take away from an existing order. If you wish to add more items, a new order will need to be placed. After receiving the additional order, we will combine them and adjust the shipping costs accordingly.
Orders may be cancelled for a full refund up until they have left our warehouse. After they have been shipped they can still be cancelled however the refund will not include the shipping charges used to ship your order. If you would like to cancel an order, please Contact Us. Having your Order Number on-hand is super helpful!
Once an order is placed, you receive an automatic email acknowledging your order. No other confirmation is sent or required. However, it’s our company’s protocol to contact customers who place orders with different billing and shipping addresses in an effort to prevent fraudulent charges for both parties. If we are unable make contact with the cardholder within 7 business days, we will cancel the order. If you still wish to receive your order, you will need to place a new order and either provide the proper information during checkout or Contact Us to confirm your credit card information.
All AFX products are warranted to be free of manufacturing defects in materials and workmanship for as long as you own it. Normal wear and tear, as well as damage caused by improper maintenance or misuse, are not covered by this warranty.
If you have a warranty issue, please fill out a warranty claim form and we’ll get you back into the race in no time!
All AFX products are covered by a limited lifetime warranty. This warranty covers manufacturing defects for the life of the product. This does not include damage caused by improper use or maintenance and normal wear and tear.
If you receive defective AFX product, please fill out a warranty claim form and we’ll get you back into the race in no time!
Wear & Tear
Normal wear and tear is not covered under our warranty.
We have lots of resources to keep your cars up and running, though! Check out our Troubleshooting & Maintenance page for loads of useful tips. You can find AFX Tune Up Kits at one of our dealers or online to replace your worn out pick up shoes, springs, gears, etc.
Part of the fun in this great hobby is maintaining and repairing your cars after normal wear and tear over time. To help you do that, we make Tune Up Kits that correspond exactly with the type of chassis you’re looking to fix up. Overtime shoes will need to be cleaned and eventually replaced, springs may fall out, tires may dry and crack, etc. You can also check out our Troubleshooting & Maintenance page for loads of maintenance tips.
We are not able to reimburse shipping costs for Returns or Exchanges. Shipping charges for the order and any subsequent returns are non-refundable. We do cover shipping costs associated with warranty issues.
We are unable to offer direct exchanges for retuned product. Once we receive the unopened product that is being returned we will refund the credit card you used to purchase them.
If you would like to purchase other items in substitution for your returned items, you’ll need to place a separate order after we issue the refund. At this time we are not able to credit accounts for future purchases.
Credit For Returns
At this time we are not able to credit accounts for future purchases. If you would like to purchase other items in substitution for your returned items, please place a separate order after the refund has been issued.
Returns and refunds are only accepted for unopened, unused product purchased directly from www.afxracing.com. If you purchased your AFX product from another retailer you will need to contact them to learn their return policy terms. To receive a refund for unopened products purchase directly from our website, please Contact Us. The unopened products will need to be sent to us. Once they are received and inspected we will issue a refund to the credit card used to purchase them.
Shipping charges for the order and any subsequent returns are non-refundable. If you would like to purchase other items in substitution for your returned items, you’ll need to place a separate order after we issue the refund. At this time we are not able to credit accounts for future purchases.
Cleaning & Care
All track, old or new, should be cleaned before use. If your set stays up, it should be cleaned weekly. Dirty track can slow, stall, or even completely stop your cars. There are 3 things to be on the lookout for when trying to keep a clean track.
1) Dust and lint (gets in the motor and gears and axle and can cause dramatic reduction in performance)
2) Oil from the gears and motor (attracts dust and lint and can get on rear tires reducing traction)
3) Corrosion on the rails (can prevent electricity from reaching motor consistently)
For a basic cleaning of your track, you’ll need a pencil eraser, a clean cloth, and canned air. Run the eraser along the rails and wipe away the residue with the clean dry cloth. Then blow away the debris with the canned air. After that, run a car on both lanes for 5 to 10 laps, pushing it whenever it stalls. If it is still stalling after all of that, lay a coin flat against the rails and rub back and forth firmly to remove stubborn dirt and corrosion.
When cleaning your car, there are 3 things that should be addressed. The pick-up shoes, the tires, and the rear axle.
Over the life of your car, dust, carbon, and grooves will accumulate on your pick-up shoes and impact the performance of your car. To clean dirt from your pick-up shoes, gently rub a white eraser against it, paying special attention to not bend it. Carbon forms from where electricity jumps from the rail to the pick-up shoe. To remove carbon, rub the pick-up shoe with light sandpaper of 100 grit or higher. After extensive racing, grooves will eventually form on your pick-up shoes. If the grooves have worn all the way through the pick-up shoes, they will need to be replaced. If the grooves are not too deep, you can continue to use them for a little longer. Use sandpaper or a fiberglass pen to clean the grooves.
Clean tires keep your car on track and going fast. For best results, clean your track before every use to prevent dust and lint from sticking to your tires. To clean your tires, lay a strip of scotch tape sticky side up and roll the tires back and forth over the sticky side to remove the dust and lint from the tires.
A dirty rear axle can drastically reduce the performance of your car. To clean your rear axle you’ll need a jewelers flathead screwdriver, tweezers, and a toothbrush. First, remove the body from the chassis and separate the rear axle from the chassis. Once the rear axle is separated, use tweezers and a toothbrush to remove dust, lint, and other debris from the rear axle. Using the jewelers flathead screwdriver, remove the pinion gear by pushing the gear off its post. Once removed, clean thoroughly using tweezers and a toothbrush. After that, your car is ready to be reassembled.
To help preserve your sets, it is important to store it well. The main thing to remember is to keep it stored in a box or covered to protect it from dirt, dust, and lint. If you live in a humid area, it may be good idea to store it even better, such as in an air tight container to help minimize corrosion. If you leave your set up, it is a good idea to clean it weekly to prevent too much build up of dust, dirt, and lint.
The rails do corrode over time and this can be worse depending on where you live, for instance, near the ocean or in a high humidity area. Corrosion is hard, if not impossible, to see. It gets between the rail and the pick-up shoe of the car blocking the electricity from getting to the motor. Generally, we find that about 5 to 10% of sets have a minor form of this problem out of the box. In 99% of those cases, the solution is to simply run the car around the track on the highest power level of the Tri Power Pack that you are able to, for 10 or so laps, pushing it by hand through any areas where it stops. After these laps the corrosion is cleaned off and the problem goes away. However, you may have to repeat the process after the set is unused for some time.
In rare cases with severe corrosion, the car will stall or stutter in the same place every time around. If you have tried cleaning the track with an eraser per the owner’s manual and you are still having problems, use the track pad that comes with the set (or any fine grit sandpaper).
In extreme cases, you can use a utility knife blade. This is definitely something to be done by an adult only – not kid stuff! Simply take the blade out of the knife and lay the edge across the two rails of one lane. Scrape the blade edge across the top of the rails to remove a small amount of the metal
Before attaching the track, physically lay it out. We include measurements in our sets, but they can be slightly off. With this type of precision work, you’ll want exact measurements. Test the layout first. Buy supplies second.
There’s two main ways to attach track to wood. The first method is SCREWS. The #4 X 5/8″ flathead wood screws work great. Drill out the track holes with a #33 drill (.103″diameter) and countersink the top with a 45-degree CS so the screwheads are flush with the track surface. This will give .350″ of screw thread to use to engage the wood surface underneath. If you don’t have those types of screws just drill the right size hole into the track.
DO NOT use nails, you will damage your track when attaching and removing. Believe us, we’ve tried…
The second method is HOT GLUE. When applied at key points hot glue is surprisingly sturdy. It also allows for easier removal since it can be cut through with a utility blade. The downside here is obvious, it’s messy and the track isn’t as evenly secured.
AFX track clips lock track pieces together at their connections. When used with screws or hot glue in a few key areas, you’ll have a smoother, quieter layout. They’re also easy to remove.
Tune Up Kits
For those new or returning to the hobby – part of the fun is maintaining and repairing your cars after normal wear and tear over time. To help you do that, we make Tune Up Kits that correspond exactly with the type of chassis you’re looking to fix up. Overtime shoes will need to be cleaned and eventually replaced, springs may fall out, tires may dry and crack, etc.
The previous Mega G PLUS tune up kits were Part Number 21020 and contained all the parts of our newest Kit EXCEPT front tires. Our newest Mega G PLUS tune up kits with Part Number 22036 INCLUDE white lettered front AND rear tires.
There are no more Racing Turbo Tune Up Kits made as the demand is far too low and has been for the past two decades. The Super G+ and SRT kits will continue being produced for the time being.
There were two versions of the Mega G tune up kit. The first version (P/N 8990) only had long pick up shoes in them. The second and final version of the kits (P/N 70330) has both long and short pick up shoes in them
Brand New Cars
Once you’ve received your new car, we’re sure your ready to start racing but we recommend warming up your new car beforehand. Cars won’t reach peak performance level until they’ve warmed up. In fact, after a warmup, cars that appeared to run much slower than others may end up matching speed or beating your top cars.
Brand New Track
All track, old or new, should be cleaned before use. Generally, we find that about 5 to 10% of sets have a minor form of corrosion out of the box. For a basic cleaning of your track, you’ll need a pencil eraser, a clean cloth, and canned air. Run the eraser along the rails and wipe away the residue with the clean dry cloth. Then blow away the debris with the canned air. After that, run a car on both lanes for 5 to 10 laps, pushing it whenever it stalls.
Large Race Sets
Large sets, such as our Giant Raceway, can be a bit intimidating to assemble. The more track that is involved in a layout, the more complicated it will be to put together. While assembling large sets, be sure to take your time and know that it may take some finessing. Track clips can be useful in setting up large sets as they help hold together track pieces that may otherwise be pulling away from each other.
Every HO slot car enthusiast’s list of must have cleaning supplies can vary but here are some items we find useful in keeping cars and track clean.
For your track, a dry lint free cloth and canned air are helpful for cleaning away dust, dirt, and lint. A pencil eraser and a coin are great for cleaning the rails of dirt and corrosion.
For your cars, a toothbrush and tweezers are good for cleaning your cars’ axles. A white eraser and light sandpaper of 100 grit or higher are useful for cleaning pickup shoes.
It’s also important to note what you should not use to clean your track and cars. Basically, anything than can cause corrosion should not be used such as water, bleach, and anything acidic. Also, you should not use anything abrasive such as steel wool or the abrasive side of a sponge.
Troubleshooting & Maintenance
Part of the fun with this great hobby is the troubleshooting and maintenance. All product, old or new, needs to be maintained to help ensure the longevity of the product. We have all the information you may need to troubleshoot and maintain your AFX product on our Troubleshooting & Maintenance page.
For our international customers, orders may take longer due to customs checks which we, unfortunately, do not have any control over. There are no extra fees for international orders other than what is stated on the order. We do not attempt to collect custom fees nor do we have a way to calculate what the fees will be for a particular order. The order’s recipient will have to pay the customs fees upon arrival of the order.
We use the USPS Priority International shipping, it is the safest, quickest, most cost-effective way to ship.
The shipping cost is determined by a number of factors including your order’s total price, size, weight, destination, and your selected shipping method. The best way to calculate shipping would be for you to input your information on our website and proceed through to checkout as if you were placing an order. That way our system can calculate exactly how much it will be to ship that specific order to your specific address. Then, if the price is too high or you’d like to add on to your order, you can cancel the order, continue shopping, or finish checking out.
Order Processing Time
Orders take 1-3 business days for us to process before they are ready to be shipped. We do not process orders on weekends or holidays. We do not own shipping trucks.
While completing your order, you will have the choice between 1-3 days Priority Shipping and standard 2-9 days Ground Shipping via USPS. On occasion, large orders with Ground Shipping may be sent via UPS.
Product Damaged In Transit
If you receive your order and find that it has been damaged in transit, please contact us and we will see to it that you receive replacements for any damaged products.
We send all orders via USPS. The only exception is if a large order is placed with regular Ground, the order may be sent UPS.
While completing your order, you will have the choice of Priority shipping. Orders sent with Priority shipping are typically delivered within 1-3 days from the day it was sent out.
You can use our store locator tool to find hobby stores in your area that sell AFX products. You can also find online and international dealers. https://afxracing.com/stores/
New to Slot Cars? Start Here.
Welcome to the wonderful world of slot car racing! Whether you’re transitioning from a different scale or have never raced slots in your life, we’re here to help.
Things to know:
All of our tracks, sets and cars are interchangeable so expanding your race set is virtually limitless.
Every set comes with everything you’ll need to start racing: power supply, controllers, cars, etc. Tune up kits are great for repairing cars and if you’re building a massive race set or using lots of banked curves, track clips are a must!
All of our products have a lifetime warranty for all manufacturing defects so if your AFX product is defective, let us know and we’ll replace it.
Racing 1/64th scale is thrilling and demanding. It takes time to assemble the set, warm the cars up and keep the track clean. Following the instructions in your set is the best way to ensure you’re ready to race. Need more? We’ve got you covered. Check out our Video Tutorials in the Technical Section.
Compare old to new
All are close in performance. The main differences are:
- Mega G+: Most drivable slot car around
- Mega G: Lowest, lightest, most powerful, and 7% faster than Super G+.
- Super G+: The reference standard until the Mega G. Handles great, good top speed and adjustable motor. 2% faster than SRT.
- SRT: Super strong Neodymium traction magnets make up for its less sophisticated design.
- Racing Turbo: Not as fast as others but bulletproof and fun to drive.
The SRT and Super G+ chassis’ are all significantly faster than the original G-Plus chassis created in the mid-70s. But some folks still prefer the slower G-Plus and Racing Turbo chassis’ with their lower magnetic downforce.
The Short Mega G & Mega G+ chassis fits MOST full-bodied cars made for SRT, Racing Turbo, and the Super G+. However, Formula (open wheel) bodies, LMP cars (Audis and Peugeot 908s) and GEN 6 NASCAR and some longer streetcars (like Mustangs and Chevelles) will only fit on the Long Mega G+ chassis. Also, none of the Formula bodies made for the other chassis’, including the Mega G will fit on either of the Mega G+ chassis.
Though we don’t have the exact dates, here is a quick and dirty chronology:
- Mega G+ (2015 – Present) *Mega Gs discontinued*
- Mega G (2007-2015) *all other chassis discontinued*
- SRT (1990s) SRT stands for Super Racing Turbo
- Racing Turbo (late 1980s)
- Super G+ (1980)
- G+ (1974-77)
- Magna Traction (1974)
- T Jet (1970s)
In addition to the above, there were at least two other chassis made between the late 50’s and early 70s though they were made under the “Model Motoring” trade name which was changed to AFX in 1971. If you want more info checkout the History section!
WHEEL & TIRE DIMENSIONS
All AFX Front TIRES: 0.375″
All AFX Rear TIRES: 0.460″
All AFX Front WHEELS: 0.275″
All AFX Rear WHEELS: 0.275″
Please note: These are also the ODs for the Racing Turbo, SRT and Super G+ fronts only. The Super G+ rear wheel is a special drop center design that can only be used with matching Super G+ tires.
Chassis dimensions are measured by the wheelbase, or the dead center of the wheels. That measurement is what defines our “long” and “short” chassis. The long chassis wheelbase is 1.7”, the short chassis wheelbase is 1.5”.
End to End Dimensions are as follows:
Long Chassis full length is 2.2”, full rear width is 1.4”, full front width is 1.26”, center height is 0.43”
Short Chassis full length is 1.98”, full rear width is 1.4”, full front width is 1.26”, center height is 0.43”
Please note: These measurements are for the MEGA G PLUS chassis only and certain “specialty” cars out now or produced in the future may have slightly different chassis measurements depending on its body style.
Size and scale
AFX cars are referred to as “HO” which is 1/87th scale. However, they have really been 1/64th scale since the early 70s and are still that scale today. It is likely that the reason they didn’t stop referring to them as HO was for marketing purposes and now it is just accepted.
Every AFX car is the same HO scale.
Car body fitment
A body clip is attached to the top of a chassis to allow it to fit under older AFX bodies. Only the short Mega G+ (and Mega G) chassis (1.5″ wheelbase) have body clips. Like the Super G+, their body clips allow them to fit under AFX bodies dating back to the early 1970s.
The Long Mega G+ chassis’ (1.7″ wheelbase) was created for use on modern race car bodies like the Formulas, Audis and Peugeot 908 bodies. None of the Formula bodies made for older chassis’ will fit on the Mega G+ chassis. Our Long Mega G+ chassis allows us to make the bodies more accurate to their real-life counterparts and only AFX has it!
Tune up kit, pit kit and set kit
For those new or returning to the hobby – part of the fun is maintaining and repairing your cars after normal wear and tear over time. To help you do that, we make Tune Up Kits that correspond exactly with the type of chassis you’re looking to fix up. Overtime shoes will need to be cleaned and eventually replaced, springs may fall out, tires may dry and crack, etc. For an in-depth walk-thru of a typical tune up, check out our video: How to Clean Pickup Shoes
The Mega G PLUS tune up kits are Part Number 22036 and include white lettered front AND rear tires.
Old to new
Any AFX car from any era will work on any AFX track from any era. However, you will notice performance and behavioral differences between the old and new cars particularly in how they respond to your controllers. Therefore, we recommend racing old versus old and new versus new – just to keep it fair! For the most reliable, high-performance races, use the most current track type with the current power supply, the Tri-Power Pack.
Mount to plywood
Before attaching a track to any surface in a permanent or semi-permanent fashion, physically layout the track you want ahead of time. Though we include measurements on the track layouts included in our sets, they can be slightly off. So, when doing this type of precision work, you’ll want exact measurements. Test the track layout first. Buy supplies second.
There’s two main ways to attach track to wood. The first is with screws, the #4 X 5/8″ flathead wood screws to be exact. Drill the track holes out with a #33 drill (.103″diameter) and countersink the top of the track with a 45-degree CS so the screwheads are flush or under the track surface. Using this method will give .350″ of screw thread to engage the wood you are installing the track to. This arrangement creates a good bond in plywood. If you can’t use those types of screws, just drill the right size hole into the track for the appropriate screw size you’ve got at home. (Technically you can use nails instead, but we don’t recommend it. Several track pieces will be damaged in the attaching and removal processes.)
The second way to attach track to wood is with a hot glue gun. When applied at key points instead of securing the track all the way around, hot glue allows for a nicer removal process since it can be cut through with an Exacto knife. And, not for nothing, when you put enough glue down, it will hold the track pretty well. The downside here is obvious; it’s messy and the track isn’t as evenly secured.
AFX track clips https://afxracing.com/product/track-clips/ will pull together and securely hold track connections, making it nearly impossible for your track layout to come apart while you’re mounting it. When used with screws or hot glue in a few key areas to anchor the track, you’ll have a smoother, quieter layout. Plus, if you decide to change the layout you can do so with minimal damage to track pieces.
We don’t actually have 4 lane track pieces. We only have 2 lane track pieces that can be setup next to each other to create a 4 lane layout. This allows as many variations of track layouts as possible, so you can create pretty much any kind of track.
There’s been 3 generations of AFX Track…
- Push/Pull: Current Track, has been around since about 1979
- Side Lock: produced from about 1976 to 1979.
- Lock and Joiner: ran from the 1960s through about 1976. Adapters were made back in the 70s.
No AFX track tooling has changed since 2008 when we copied the existing tooling exactly for about 70% of the tools. The only change before that was when the track tools were made in 1979. So, whatever “thickness” the tracks were in 1979, they were not changed in 2008.
We used to make adapter tracks to connect our current track type to its predecessor the Side Lock, and the Side Lock to the original Lock & Joiner. Though we no longer make or sell any track adapters, you may still be able to find them through other retailers however they can be hard to find.
AFX tracks are designed to connect and disconnect easily while maintaining excellent electrical contact. But it’s always nice to have some extra support… Our track clips solidify connections without damaging the track itself.
Track clips are great for:
- A layout you aren’t ready to commit to gluing or nailing down
- Eliminating gaps at track junctions for a quieter, smoother race
- Avoiding overpass break downs
- Protecting against centrifugal forces pulling apart your bank curves
Sold in packs of 25 and 100, make sure to use two clips on each track junction. Simply press into place underneath your track with your thumb. Remove just as easily with a small screwdriver. WARNING: Not for use by children under the age of 12. Wear Protective Safety Glasses when using clips.
These track clips will only work on AFX track made after 1980. Tracks made before 1980 require the original track clips found through specialty hobby shops.
We have three different cord lengths for our controllers:
6 feet long: controllers sold individually
3 feet long: controllers in Super International Sets
2 feet long: controllers in all sets besides Super International sets
In 1971 Aurora released a 45ohm Yellow controller. The 45ohm controllers worked best with the likes of Racing Turbos and Magna Tractions. Our previous controllers, from as far back as the 1980s, had 60-65 ohms which worked best with Super G+ and Mega G cars. And then of course our current controllers have 120 ohms designed specifically for the Mega G+ chassis – that massive increase in ohmage translates to more wire for the resistor which means more resistance which means – more control.
Old and new
In 1971 Aurora released a 45ohm Yellow controller seen below. The 45ohm controllers worked best with the likes of Racing Turbos and Magna Tractions. Our previous controllers, from as far back as the 1980s, had 60-65 ohms which worked best with Super G+ and Mega G cars. And then of course our current controllers have 120 ohms designed specifically for the Mega G+ chassis – that massive increase in ohmage translates to more wire for the resistor which means more resistance which means – more control.
During production, our controllers receive a light coat of preservative before they’re packaged to prevent corrosion. Most of it evaporates completely but with about 5% of controllers, there is some residual. This residual can cause a small amount of smoke, and sometimes a subtle “electrical” smell as the preservative evaporates. Neither is at all harmful to humans and will disappear as soon as it evaporates completely, usually no more than 30 minutes of racing.
Smoking occurs most often on the Tri-Power Pack’s Expert level (the only level that generates the heat required for evaporation). If you are at all uncomfortable with your controller smoking, let us know and we will send you a replacement.
Powering both lanes
If ONE of your controllers is controlling BOTH of your track lanes, there’s a simple solution!
Turns out when you’re using the crisscross tracks you must have an even number of them in one layout. In other words, for every layout you assemble, you must have two, or four of these crisscross track pieces, NOT one or three. Having an odd number of them in your layout turns the two individual lanes into one continuous lane, therefore causing one controller to power both lanes. To fix it, just add another crisscross track piece to divide them back up and all will be right in the world.
If your controllers are controlling multiple lanes on your track and your layout DOES NOT INCLUDE any crisscross track pieces, there’s two culprits: either you are using a spare terminal track as a regular 15” straight track in your layout and not plugging it into controllers or power source OR your terminal track is defective and needs to be replaced.
Assembling and disassembling track sets takes precision. Sets that don’t work after storage are almost always a track connection problem, not a power problem. “Dead” lanes are identified as either:
- Completely 100% without power on every part of the track
- Sections of the layout have power while others do not.
The key is the Terminal Track.
If one lane is dead starting ON the Terminal Track itself, the Terminal is defective. Contact us for a replacement.
If one lane is dead starting AFTER the Terminal Track the cause is most likely a bent rail end. To bend the rail end back into place, pull the track pieces apart at the point where the power stopped. Inspect the rail ends to be sure none are broken. Each lane has two rails, one is flat, the other is a “Z” bend.
Using a small, flat blade screwdriver, gently pry the “Z” rail end away from the track tab it rests against. The very tip of the “Z” connector should be 1/32 inch from the plastic tab (about the thickness of 2 business cards). Note: be careful not to break the plastic tab! Re-connect the two pieces of track and test.
Using AFX sets outside the US
Yes, however, the power pack that comes in all AFX sets is for use with an input power of 120v and will not work with 220v or 230v without a transformer. Though we do not have transformers available in any other voltage, an electronics store in your country should carry them. Failure to use the correct transformer will damage or destroy the AFX power pack and may cause serious damage to your electrical system.
Power pack old and new
The Standard Power Pack has come with AFX sets since the 1970s. It has one setting, 22 volts, which is great for our more experienced racers. However, for our younger racers, the Tri-Power Pack is extra fun. Introduced in 2007, our Tri-Power Pack allows racers to easily switch between three power settings: Beginner, Intermediate, and Expert.
On Beginner (using only 8 volts) racers can drive on most layouts at full throttle without the car coming off the track. On Intermediate (using 12 volts) racers can come off at full throttle in at least a few of the corners. On Expert (22 volts, the same voltage as our Standard Power Pack), the cars can come off pretty much everywhere.
Our Tri-Power Pack comes in all current AFX sets and plugs right into any AFX set sold after about 1980. This is the first time such a product has been made for HO cars and only AFX has it!
Don’t worry, we’ve got you covered. Literally.
Damaged or missing product? We’ll replace it on our dime. Product not working right? We’ll get you back on track in no time.
Check your inbox for an email confirming we’ve received your claim. A Customer Service Representative will respond within 24 hours not counting weekends and holidays.
Customer Service Hours of Operation are Monday-Friday from 9AM-5PM PST.